Crankset Installation
Following theShimano instructions, I began the installation of the XT bottom bracket and CS-770 crankset. First, I needed to determine the width of the Sanner bracket shell. As per the directions, a 68mm bracket requires two 2.5mm spacers on the drive side of the crank, and 1 on the left. I greased up both sets of the Hollowtech external bearing cones and threaded them onto the shell. These were tightened to the specified torque. I inserted the drive side single piece crank and axle and used a rubber mallot to push it through the bottom bracket. The left crank arm was mounted, 1.5nM of torque was used to load the bearings, and the cross bolts were tightened to complete the installation.Headset, Fork, Stems and Handlebars
My front cable hanger finally arrived, so I'm ready to install the fork. First, I greased the bearing surfaces and placed the lower bearing on the fork crown. The fork was then placed up through the headtube. The top bearing is next, followed by a bushing, thin washer, and top cover. The top cover has an o-ring inside to keep moisture out of the headset.
The angle of the cable hanger interfered with the top cover, so I had to place a 5mm spacer below it. Above the cable hanger, is the first stem. It is a Ritchey Pro of 110mm placed with its 6 degree angle downwards. Following this, is another spacer and finally the Ritchey Pro 100mm with upward angle of 30 degrees. I know the use of two stems seams weird. I'm testing an idea I discovered on the Crazy Guy on a Bike touring website.
Most tourers like to have a handlebar bag for their maps and items they wish to have handy while riding. In addition there is the need to mount such things as computers, GPS units, LED lights, and interrupter brakes on the handlebars. This is a problem as all these items can interfere with brake and shifter cables as well as require space on the bars that are at a premium. One solution is to add the second stem, with a short piece of PVC pipe or sawed down handlebar that can add attachment space below and away from the handlebar.
Links:
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=RrzKj&doc_id=1834&v=1H
http://mgagnon.net/velo/potence-double.en.shtml
I purchased a used Specialized handlebar from eBay, sawed the ends off with a hacksaw, and painted the exposed ends. I left the ends a little long, so as to allow for attachment space. Once I complete and test this setup, I may shorten the bar if necessary. I intend to attach a Topeak Tourguide bag. The drop handlebars on the upper stem will have Cane Creek Cross levers installed.
Once the full "stack" was in place, I marked the steerer tube in preparation for cutting it down to the necessary 3mm below stack height. This allows the top cap and bolt to have the proper clearance needed to preload the headset bearings. Of course, that means disassembling everything so that the tube can be cut with a hacksaw. I purchased a Nasbar Star Nut installer, which allowed for quick and easy placment of the nut, at exactly the proper depth. Everything was re-assembled and the bearings were loaded. I mounted the two handle bars so that I could make sure the stems were straight. Then the stems and the cable hanger were tightened with a torque wrench, working from top to bottom. Below are photos of the installation. Like I said, kind of weird, but we'll see how it works. I can always go back to the standard configuration by removing the lower stem and cutting down the steerer tube.
Odds and Ends
Headset Installation
I ordered a Cane Creek S3 Headset for the Sanner. After having the headtube reamed and faced at a local LBS, I pressed the bearing cups with a Park HHP-3 after first coating the inside of the tube with Phil Wood grease.Wheel Preparation
I'm now waiting on two key items to be delivered. One is the bottom bracket and crankset and the other is the headset. Most of the other components have arrived, but can't be assembled until the headset and fork are installed. Meanwhile, I'll set up the wheels.
The first thing to do is to tape the rims. After checking to make sure there are no metal burrs around the valve stem and spoke holes, I ran 10mm wide Velox tape around the inside of the rim.
Following this, I mounted one side of the tire. The tires I'll be using are 32mm Schwalbe Marathons. These are not as puncture resistant as the long distance tourist favored Marathon Plus tires, but they are much lighter, and a good compromise for the type of touring I'll be doing. I chose 32mm, which should be good for the occassional rail trail or dirt road riding, yet the rolling resistance won't be too bad for paved roads. As you can see from the photos, they have a reflective strip on the sidewall that should add a safety factor for low light riding.
Pounds lost this week: 0. FAIL AGAIN!
Guess it is time to start exercising.
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